Dear {NOMEUTENTE}In this issue, #32, of our newsletter dedicated to the pasta universe – a pasta bulletin that has being launched for the past 4 years both in Italian and English, thanks to the passionate partnership with Riccardo Felicetti – coincides with the definition af all the details of the tenth edition of Identità Golose congress, taking place on February 9-11 in via Gattamelata, Milan.
In less than two months you’ll encounter pasta as a real protagonist on the day of Tuesday. The leitmotif of the day is the dried pasta, the one that we, as Italian, feel as OUR pasta, made with durum wheat (and not soft wheat, which we leave to those who like it).
There will be 8 speakers, two of which from abroad. This is the succession: at 10.15 am Mauro Uliassi (Restaurant Uliassi in Senigallia – Ancona), then Japanese Yasuhiro Sasajima (Il Ghiottone in Kyoto) and, before the lunch break, Enrico Bartolini (Devero in Cavenago Brianza – Monza). In the afternoon, the Bask Josean Martinez Alija (Nerua in Bilbao, Spain), Giuseppe Iannotti (Krèsios in Telese Terme – Benevento), Davide Scabin (Combal.zero in Rivoli – Turin), Norbert Niederkofler (St.Hubertus of Rosa Alpina hotel in Badia – Bolzano) and a great final rush by Antonia Klugmann (Venissa in Venice), a person whom I admire so much for her talent of thinking in a brilliant and unexpected way.
Paolo Marchi |
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Sweet Paccheri: Christmas with Gianluca Fusto «I brought this dish to the first edition of Identità di Pasta (2010, editor’s note) », the pastry-chef Gianluca Fusto of the Gianluca Fusto Consulting (with a big quantity of other projects in progress) recalls, «In Italy, pasta in pastry-making is historically used as a container: ravioli stuffed with chocolate, ravioli stuffed with ricotta, etc.. Here I wanted to use dry pasta cooked in honey-scented water, to give it a new smell. Pasta, our mostly copied and envied dish all around the world, is recognizable by its aspect but not by its taste. A great job has been made as regards sugars to make pasta neither sweet not salty. It’s one of the dishes I get to like most. Over the years I have brought it around the world always arousing a great success».
Pumpkin cream, hazel-nut and paccheri
Recipe for 24 persons
INGREDIENTS
Paccheri
4239 g water
170 g granulated sugar
212 g dextrose
318 g acacia honey
32 g fleur de sel
15 g fresh lemon zest
15 g Bio Sicilian orange zest
Oil to cool
1000 g Pariani hazel-nut oil
Pumpkin cream
923 g pumpkin
40 g pumpkin seed oil
16 g Bio orange zest
26 g Sosa cinnamon sticks
395 g Absolut Cristal
Namelaka Ivoire and hazel-nut
260 g UHT whole milk
195 g Aquolina hazel-nut paste
13 g glucose
441 g Ivoire covering
584 g 35% fresh cream
Orange and cinnamon velvet sauce
432 g fresh whole milk
16 g glucose syrup
11 g Oro 2 g jelly sheets
459 g Ivoire covering
540 g mascarpone cheese
22 g Bio Sicilian orange zest
22 g Sosa cinnamon sticks
Hazel-nut and salt Stroisel
248 g granulated sugar
248 g Petra 1 flour
248 g Pariani hazel-nut flour
248 g 82 % M.G. butter
8 g fleur de sel
Saffron and oil granita
553 g fresh orange juice
691 g mineral water
64 g glucose
64 g granulated sugar
9 g orange peel
125 g extra-virgin olive oil
2 g Sardinian Tenuta Rocchetta saffron pistils
PROCEDURE
Paccheri
Bring water to boil in a wide pot. Add honey, sugar, dextrose and salt. Leave the citrus fruits in infusion for about 15 minutes. Filter the liquid using a colander and add 2 g of 50% citric solution.
Oil to cool
Put oil in a bowl and freeze for at least 5 hours.
Pumpkin cream
Clean the pumpkin and dice it. Add spices and vacuum-seal. Cook in the micro-wave oven at medium power for at least 15 minutes. Check cooking and once ended mix the pumpkin until obtaining a smooth cream. Then add neutral glaze, orange zests and vanilla. If necessary add very little water.
Namelaka Ivoire and hazel-nut
Melt the Ivoire chocolate at 55°C and add the hazel-nut paste. Have the milk boil together with the glucose and add the previously soaked jelly. Pour gently over the covering to obtain a stable emulsion. Whip in the mixer and add the cream. Let it cool down for at least 12 hours in the fridge.
Orange and cinnamon velvet sauce
Leave milk in infusion with the orange zest and the cinnamon. Bring the milk to boil, filter, bring back to the original weight and again to boil. Slowly pour the liquid over the Ivoire covering melt at 45°C, energetically rubbing until obtaining an elastic and bright mixture. Add the mascarpone cheese and pass into the mixer for a few seconds to purify the structure. Slightly whip in the planetary mixer equipped with paddle attachment if needed. Let it crystallize for at least one night in the fridge at 4°C.
Hazel-nut and salt Stroisel
Sift all the ingredients to powder. Add diced cold butter, mixing everything in the planetary mixer with the paddle attachment. Keep in the fridge at 4°C. Pass the mixture through the meat chopper to obtain small balls and freeze them immediately. Cook in the oven at 160°C for 23 minutes with open valve.
Saffron and olive oil granita
Warm up water and sugars; add the previously softened and squeezed jelly. Pour the fresh orange juice, filter and incorporate saffron. Add the peels, put the mixture in a plastic container and freeze. Mix with the blender the granite and the extra-virgin olive oil; put it into a rectangular mould. Cut into parallelepipeds and keep in the freezer. |
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Tamburini and the New Year’s Eve re-covered lentils «There are so many starting points to tell this recipe that I cannot find the way», the chef from Florence David Tamburini of the restaurant La Gazza Ladra in Palazzo Failla, Modica (Ragusa) says. «I like the idea to serve lentils in an apparently different way which isn’t however so far from the classical one from the point of view of taste, with recognizable flavors and no fusion. The idea of the presentation comes from Japanese souvenirs, from steamy dishes of sobe I used to eat in Nagano in restaurants near the temple of Zenkoji. As it often happens to me, appearance is the cue which leads me to look into the material. So I discovered the taste of lentils just ground (flour) in a home stone mill I have brought with me for 20 years. The classical roundness of the cooked legume gives way to vegetable, mineral, new tastes. The "broth" of baked onions is sweet, the dripping is classic, the base. Cooked lentils strengthen pasta and give a visual elegance. Sea urchins represent the contrast, the unexpected ingredient which harmonizes the whole. I move away to better see what surrounds me».
Pasta and Lentils
Recipe for 4 persons
INGREDIENTS
200 g black lentils from Leonforte
200 g durum wheat Russello variety re-ground semolina
6 pieces of white onion
100 g sea urchin pulp
PROCEDURE
Boil half of the lentils in water for 18 minutes. Have them cool down in the cooking water to fix color. Pass the remaining half through the mill (fine milling) thus obtaining the lentil flour; sieve. Mix the re-ground semolina with the sieved black lentil flour, add the necessary water and let the dough rest under vacuum-seal for1 hour. Pass it through the spaghetti die. Cook the whole white onions in the oven at180°C for 90 minutes. Pass through the juicer and then filter with a muslin to obtain a clear “broth”, season with salt and pepper. Warm up slightly and place in infusion some laurel leaves and a few seeds of cumin. Cook pasta and quickly heat it up in the pan with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and some onion broth. Place in small cups, add the broth and in the end the sea urchin pulp.
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Carbonara-style liquid tortello by Baiocco «I often say that my dishes should contain an element of surprise», Stefano Baiocco from the restaurant Villa Feltrinelli in Gargnano (Brescia), 2 newly obtained Michelin stars, explains «In this case the surprise is given by the explosion of the tortello in the mouth: the palate perceives a friendly, known, oily, adulating, and greedy taste. That of the carbonara, however without anything to recall the classical dish of the Roman tradition. The dish is completed with the earthy flavor of the broccoli which wraps and finishes it». Surprise Christmas (pictures by Giovanni Tagini).
Carbonara-style liquid tortello with perfumed broccoli and anchovy sauce from Cetara
Recipe for 10 persons
INGREDIENTS
• Egg pasta (1,400 g flour, 600 g semolina, 14 eggs, 16 egg yolks, salt and oil)
• Carbonara-style stuffing (45 g pasteurized egg yolk, 2 sheets of isinglass, season with salt, plenty of black pepper, Roman ewe’s milk cheese and Parmesan cheese, add 200 g of cream)
• One whole broccoli
• Broccoli cream (650 g broccoli, only the green part, 85 g anchovy sauce from Cetara, 110 g pilée ice)
• Pork cheek lard
• Parsley oil (100 g parsley, 250 g seed oil)
• Broccoli sprouts
• Parmesan cheese and butter to whip
PREPARATION AND FINISHING
Knead the egg dough and let it rest for at least three hours in a cold chamber.
For the carbonara-style stuffing
Bring the egg yolk to the cooking point by whipping it in a bain-marie, season it with salt, plenty of black pepper, ewe’s milk cheese and Parmesan cheese and now add the jelly already softened and melt and in the end incorporate the averagely whipped cream.
For the broccoli cream
Cook broccoli in two liters water with 35 g of sea salt, cool it immediately using a blast chiller, whirl it with ice and the anchovy sauce.
For the parsley oil
Blanch the parsley in water, cool it in water and ice, squeeze well and whirl with seed oil in the thermomix at 45 C for 10 minutes at the highest speed. Cook the pork cheek lard in the oven at 140 C until crunchy.
Prepare tortelli in the classical way, cook it in slightly salted water, whip it with butter and Parmesan cheese; the stuffing structure will become liquid when touching the boiling water.
Dip some broccoli flowering tops and some thin foils obtained from the broccoli stalk in the same cooking water. Plate and finish with the broccoli cream, the sprouts, the pork cheek lard and some drops of parsley oil.
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Bottoni with squids and potatoes by Iacobucci «We all know that Bologna is the home of fresh pasta and tortellino», Agostino Iacobucci, Neapolitan chef at the restaurant I Portici in Bologna tells, «My feasts anticipate a reconcilement between my origins and the city which adopted me. There is the bottone, a sort of tortellino, the Dop potato from Bologna but also the squid, symbol of my land».
My pasta with squids and potatoes
Recipe for 4 persons
INGREDIENTS
1 kg fresh squids
1 stalk of celery
2 garlic cloves
rosemary
thyme
1 kg potatoes
tarragon
iced extra-virgin olive oil
onion
white wine
garlic
PROCEDURE
Put in a saucepan extra-virgin olive oil, celery, garlic, thyme and rosemary. After cleaning the squids slightly brown them apart. Grill them for very few minutes and add them in the saucepan.
Continue cooking over a low heat, and then add ice and water. Bring to boil, reduce by one third, add onion in pieces and white wine, and continue cooking for 20 minutes. Pass it through the sieve and then through the muslin until obtaining a clear broth.
Roll dough thinly, “Grandma Duck- style”. Prepare the bottoni with the potatoes previously boiled, smashed and seasoned. Finally, cook the potato bottoni in the squid broth and scent it with tarragon leaves. |
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Daniele Usai: Spaghettone and (salty) gingerbread “In this recipe” Daniele Usai chef of the restaurant Il Tino in Lido di Ostia (Rome) explains, “there is a strong combination between two typical ingredients of Christmas feasts: large eel (in this case smoked eel) and gingerbread, which people imagine to be sweet. In this case it is served as a salty crumble. The strong tastes of smoked eel and turnip tops are balanced by the sweet note of the spices used in the crumble and the mousse: cinnamon, ginger, cloves…».
Spaghettoni with smoked eel, turnip tops and gingerbread
Recipe for 4 persons
INGREDIENTS
For the eel
600 g gross of eel
100 g coarse sea salt
50 g cane sugar
Black pepper and anise to taste
Sawdust for smoker as required
For the gingerbread crumble
120 g butter
50 g raw cane sugar
150 g 00 flour
150 g almond flour
25 g rum
15 g mixed spices for gingerbread
Salt to taste
For the gingerbread mousse
500 ml fish stock
5 g soya lecithin
5 g mixed spices for gingerbread
Salt to taste
Other ingredients
400 g spaghettoni
2 garlic cloves
200 g clean turnip tops
Red basil to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil
Fish-stock to taste
PROCEDURE
For the eel
Fillet and bone the eel obtaining two main fillets and leaving the skin. Mix sea salt, cane sugar, pepper, and anise and have the fillets marinating in the fridge for about 5 hours. Remove the eel from the marinade and rinse under cold water, dry and smoke for about half an hour; if the fish is marinated with salt and sugar it can be also cold smoked.
For the crumble
Mix the ingredients and lay them over a baking tray covered with baking paper. Cook at 170 degrees until completely browned taking care to move the mixture from time to time to break it into pieces.
For the gingerbread mousse
Warm the fish stock up to 60 degrees, add salt and melt lecithin and spices emulsifying on the surface with a stick blender to obtain a stable mousse.
In a pan brown the two garlic cloves in their jacket with the extra-virgin olive oil over a very low heat and add the turnip tops previously parboiled for about one minute. Cook spaghetti in plenty salted water and dry it 3 minutes before their best cooking point. Continue cooking in the pan adding the fish stock. Once cooking has come to an end whip pasta with extra-virgin olive oil and add the smoked eel pulp coarsely scaling it with your hands. Add part of the basil cut by hand and plate. Finish the dish by garnishing with the gingerbread crumble and mousse and the tops of the remaining basil.
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Paolo Barrale, ravioli from Campania To Paolo Barrale from the restaurant Marennà in Sorbo Serpico (Avellino) the feasts of the end of the year are the excuse to sum up the best of Campania in the dish: «There are the friarielli and the anchovies from Cetara which exalt the truffle from Bagnoli with their tastiness. We kept the buttermilk of the Buffalo mozzarella, reduced with milk cream. It is a greedy and voluptuous dish, to eat profusely».
Raviolo with Buffalo mozzarella, turnip tops, mozzarella fondue, anchovies and truffle
Recipe for 4 persons
INGREDIENTS
For the dough
200 g 00flour
200 g durum wheat reground semolina
15 egg yolks
1 pinch of salt for the stuffing
100 g Buffalo ricotta
Salt and pepper
For the fondue
50 g milk cream
100 g fresh mozzarella
4 fillet of anchovies pickled in oil
1 black truffle
200 g turnip tops
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves
1 chili pepper
PROCEDURE
Make a well with flours and salt, add the eggs and knead energetically. Let the dough rest in a cool place, covered with a cloth. For the stuffing, sieve the ricotta and, if need be, season with little salt and pepper. Pour the Buffalo milk cream and the mozzarella buttermilk in a small pot. Bring to boil and emulsify with the minipimer. Parboil the turnip tops in salted water. Leave the most beautiful aside. Heat-up the remaining ones with oil, garlic and chili pepper, remove the herbs, whirl and pass through the thin strainer obtaining a sauce. Bone the anchovies and cut them into lozenges.
Roll the dough thinly and obtain eight 10x5 rectangles. Stuff 4 of these with the stuffing and close with a bit of egg and the other 4 rectangles, taking care to remove the air present.
Close well and cook in the water where you have previously cooked the turnip tops. Dry “al
dente”(underdone) and garnish with the heated up turnip tops, the sauce, the mozzarella fondue and finally the anchovies and the sliced truffle.
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Sea carbonara by Maria Cicorella «In this dish we find some ingredients typical of the menus of the great festivities – sea food, white fish, shrimps – together with the turnip top and the cow’s ricotta, an overview of greedy Apulia», Maria Cicorella from the restaurant Pashà in Conversano (Bari), a new Michelin star, explains. «It is quite an easy dish. What is important is the selection of each single ingredient: they all have to be flawless, from the spaghettone to the pork cheek lard».
Sea carbonara spaghettoni
Recipe for 10 persons
INGREDIENTS
700 g spaghettoni
1 kg mussels
4 fillets of white fish (preferably bass)
500 g clams
30 red shrimps
300 g sea tagliatella
1 kg turnip tops
300 g fresh cow’s ricotta
10 slices of toasted smoked pork cheek lard
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Garlic and chili pepper
Brandy
Grated bio lemon peel
PROCEDURE
Wash mussels and cook them with oil, garlic and chili pepper, as soon as they open take them off the heat and remove the shells. Cut fish fillets into small pieces, flush clams of sand with cold water and salt, shell shrimps and boil turnips in salty water keeping them underdone, then shock them in water and ice. In a pan sear shrimps with oil and one garlic clove in its jacket. Simmer with brandy and add the sea tagliatella when it dries out, together with fish fillets and clams. When they are flavored, add the turnip tops, the spaghettoni boiled in salty water, the mussels with their cooking water and finally whip with the ricotta previously mixed to the grated lemon peel.
Plate and garnish with a slice of smoked toasted pork cheek lard. (text gathered by Sonia Gioia)
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