Dear {NOMEUTENTE}in the previous number of the newsletter we announced a still partial program of the day Identità di Pasta during the ninth edition of Identità Milano, on Sunday February, 10 2013 to be precise. Still a couple of tesseras were missing to complete the whole pasta mosaic. Now they are in their place and it’s a pleasure to me publishing the complete proposal, with a special thank to Riccardo Felicetti who has believed in our job for time as we have in his. This man from the Trentino region has the unusual gift of looking beyond the borders of his company and it is not by chance that he is the president of Italian pasta-factories. The fact is that he can alternate thoughts about his pasta and pasta in general. Which is not common.
Let’s see now Identità di Pasta 2013: in the morning Matteo Baronetto (Cracco, Milan), Roberto Petza (S’Apposentu di Casa Puddu, Siddi – Oristano) and Anthony Genovese (Il Pagliaccio, Rome) will follow on. In the afternoon Christian Milone (La Gastronavicella, Pinerolo - Turin), Alessandro Gilmozzi (El Molin, Cavalese – Trento), Davide Scabin (Combal.Zero, Rivoli – Turin), Frank Rizzuti (Frankrizzuti Cucina del Sud, Potenza) and Luciano Monosilio (Pipero al Rex, Rome). It is important to underline that there are three debuts at the congress: Milone, Rizzuti and Monosilio. In fact they are on the stage for the first time and Christian hasn’t even a star. Just like Niko Romito at his time…
Paolo Marchi
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With Felicetti, after 4 years and 24 newsletters  We reached 24. It is the number of the Identità di pasta newsletter sent today, a newsletter that from the very first number, more than two and a half years ago, ratifies a precise alliance between Identità Golose and Monograno Felicetti: to give a realistic picture of the excellence of one among the Italian products most widely consumed (and increasingly more) in the world, without falling in the trap of stereotypes. An exercise we can do if we rely on unexceptionable raw materials, not only as a slogan, and on interprets who try to avoid weak and obvious points of tradition, improving it if necessary.
If we read again the first number dated March, 29 2010 we find interesting tests, techniques and finished dishes by chefs like Elio Sironi, Gennaro Esposito, Moreno Cedroni, Christophe Martin, Corrado Assenza, Galileo Reposo, Enrico Crippa and Alfonso Caputo. Many of them have also been the protagonists, two months ago, of the first edition of Identità di pasta which is also and mainly the name of the format – conceived in synergy with the pasta-factory in Predazzo – which Sunday February 10,2013 will enrich Identità Milano for the fourth time. If the first edition dates back to 2010, the germs of the fever were already evident in 2007 when in the Blue Hall of Palazzo Mezzanotte pioneering liaisons among bread, pasta and scientific cooking were showed (we remember, among the others, a valuable performance by Fulvio Pierangelini-Davide Cassi in favor of celiacs).
What does remain of 4 congresses and 24 newsletters (here the summary of all the 24 numbers)? Important evolutions like those which followed a memorable show in London by Davide Scabin: «pasta may also be a first course», he said actually legitimizing several entrées, side dishes and desserts with spaghetti, fusilli and paccheri dressed with unusual sauces and ingredients (see the recent pasta marshmallows by Alessandro Gilmozzi, in the picture with Riccardo Felicetti). And one truth that, if stated a few years ago, people were laughing at you: in the consideration of great chefs, not only Italian ones, dry pasta from great artisans is officially undermining the historical supremacy of stuffed fresh pasta. |
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RECIPE/Pumpkin by Fabio Barbaglini In the picture by Maurizio Brera "Pumpkin" a dish by Fabio Barbaglini, chef from the Antica Osteria del Ponte in Cassinetta di Lugagnano (Milan), among the protagonists of Identità Milano 2013.
Recipe for 4 persons
Pumpkin broth
130 g green celery
100 g carrots
100 g onion
½ shallot
1 cardamom
1 java pepper
1 leaf of fresh laurel
400 g skin, pulp and seeds of pumpkin
150 g pumpkin
ice
Peel vegetables and dice them, toast them well in a saucepan with a drizzle of olive oil. Cover with ice and have them boil, reduce on a low heat for a few minutes and leave in infusion for at least two hours, filter and adjust to taste. Use the pumpkin broth to cook the tortelli.
Pumpkin dough
200 g flour
50 g pumpkin purée
pinch of salt
1 drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil
4 egg yolks
Peel the pumpkin and remove the inside seeds, dice it and place the dices on a dish with a pinch of salt, a small knob of butter and a small branch of thyme, cover with plastic wrap and cook in the microwave oven for a few minutes. At the end of cooking, sieve the pumpkin and have if drip in a cloth obtaining a creamy though dry mixture. Add eggs, flour, salt, a drizzle of olive oil and knead well until obtaining smooth and silky dough. Have it rest in the fridge for at least one hour in a vacuum bag. Thinly flake it and cut it in circles having a diameter of 8 cm.
Stuffing of the raviolo
600 g pumpkin
8 medium-size well closed pumpkin flowers
butter
a small branch of thyme
salt
extra-virgin olive oil
2 l pumpkin perfumed broth
Peel the pumpkin and remove the inside seeds. Dice it and cook it in the microwave oven on a dish with a small knob of butter, salt and a small branch of thyme. Cover with plastic wrap and cook for a few minutes. At the end of cooking, sieve the pumpkin with a thin sifter and let it drip in a cloth, obtaining a smooth and dry mixture. Adjust to taste and put it into the sac-à-poche.
Peel the pumpkin flowers and remove the pollen, stuff them with the pumpkin purée and close them “as a sphere” with the plastic wrap. Cook them in the steam oven at 85°C for one minute and cool them immediately with icy water. Remove the flowers from the external envelope and place them in the middle of the dough. Close the raviolo to form a crest and cook it in the pumpkin perfumed broth for 2 minutes; drain and shine with an emulsion of olive oil and pumpkin broth.
Pumpkin cream
500 g pumpkin
150 g pumpkin broth
butter
a small branch of thyme
salt
extra-virgin olive oil
Peel the pumpkin and dice it. Place the dices on a dish with one knob of butter, thyme, salt and cover with plastic wrap. Cook in the microwave oven for a few minutes. At the end of cooking, sieve with a thin sifter and emulsify with extra-virgin olive oil and adjust to taste. Obtain a smooth cream.
Rabarbaro Zucca reduction
300g Rabarbaro Zucca
200 g sugar
extra-virgin olive oil
In a small saucepan reduce very slowly Rabarbaro Zucca and sugar until it almost caramelizes. At the end, add a drizzle of olive oil and emulsify.
Toasted pumpkin seeds
60 g pumpkin seeds
Place the pumpkin seeds on a plate and toast them in the oven at 140°C for 8 minutes.
Finishing
With the aid of a brush make a brush stroke in the middle of a soup dish with the Rabarbaro Zucca caramel, pour three spoonfuls of pumpkin cream in the middle and place the pumpkin dough ravioli, shined in the pan, on top of it. Garnish with the pumpkin seeds, 3 drops of pumpkin seed oil, and a pinch of scaled salt. |
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RECIPE/Black tea spaghetti by Eugenio Boer The Pastificio dei Campi Gragnano Spaghetti, Lapsang Souchong black tea, saffron potatoes and sea urchins by Eugenio Boer, chef at Enocratia in Milano. All the ingredients for the recipe are also sold at the restaurant, an "Enocratica surviving kit" designed by Gianluca Biscalchin.
Recipe for 2 persons
Ingredients
160 g spaghetti
60 g shallot
120 g potatoes
2 g saffron stigmas
10 g Lapsang Souchong tea
30 g chive
80 g sea urchins
extra-virgin olive oil
salt and mill black pepper
Procedure
Fill a pot with water, adjust with salt, have it boil and add the Lapsang Souchong black tea. Put the saffron stigmas into a small glass with hot water to rehydrate. Have the finely minced shallots brown in a pan with a spoonful of extra-virgin olive oil and make them sear.
Wash the potatoes, peel and dice them. Add them in the pan with the shallots, the saffron and cook them into their water on a low heat after adding salt. If they dry too much add a little water.
In the meantime cook the spaghetti in the black tea and prepare a boule with extra-virgin olive oil and finely minced chive where you’ll put the spaghetti when drained. On the bottom of a dish place the saffron potatoes, a nest of spaghetti and dress with a spoonful of sea urchins. The perfect matching to this dish is made of 2 glasses of Grillo by Nino Barraco. Like being in Sicily. |
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RECIPE/The cappelletti without sauce by Delmonte The Cappelletti without sauce with smoked Grana Padano cheese by Federico Delmonte, chef of the restaurant Vicolo del Curato in Fano (Ancona).
Ingredients
1 pumpkin from Mantua
2 garlic cloves
coarse salt
amaretto di Saronno biscuits
Grana Padano cheese
apple mustard
Egg
Salt and pepper
Mountain butter
Sage
4-5 small pieces of bio charcoal (mountain charcoal, without chemical components)
Procedure
to smoke the Grana Padano cheese
Get lit charcoal pieces, place them in a steel container and cover them with one liter of extra-virgin olive oil. Cold olive oil will react with the heat of the charcoal creating smoke. Quickly place the piece of Grana Padano cheese on a small grid. Cover it and let it rest for one night. In case this operation cannot be done, get some smoked black tea, whisk it and whip it with two knobs of butter.
for the stuffing
Cook the pumpkin from Mantua, already cleaned and diced, with two cloves of garlic and coarse salt (a little). Cover it with tinfoil and cook it in the oven at 150°C for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and let it drain for one complete day to eliminate excess water. Go on preparing the stuffing: every 150 g of pulp add 150 g of crumbled amaretto biscuits, 150 g of Grana Padano cheese ands 150 g of apple mustard, 1 egg, salt and pepper.
Finishing
Form the cappelletti, cook it in plenty salty water and dress it in a container with melted butter and sage. Place in the dish sprinkling it with grated smoked cheese. |
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RECIPE/Pasta with butter by Giuseppe Iannotti “Pasta with butter”, that is Fagottini with roasted guinea fowl over butter sauce by Giuseppe Iannotti of the restaurant Kresios in Telese Terme (Benevento).
Recipe for 4 persons
Ingredients
for the egg dough
395 g 00 flour
2 whole eggs
4 egg yolks
for the stuffing
1 guinea fowl
1 lemon
1 whole garlic
1 rosemary bunch
extra-virgin olive oil to taste
white wine vinegar to taste
salt to taste
for the sauce
300 g crème fraîche
50 g demi-sel de baratte butter
30 g red cow Parmesan cheese seasoned for 42 months
Procedure
for the egg dough
On a table make a pile of flour with a well in the middle and place eggs and yolks inside. Knead all the ingredients until the dough becomes smooth and let it rest for 1 hour.
for the stuffing
Pluck the guinea fowl and remove the entrails; insert garlic, lemon and rosemary inside. Cook it on the spit for 2 hours, brushing it from time to time with oil and vinegar. Once cooked, bone it and make a brown sauce with the bones. The stuffing is prepared in the Pacojet glass: with the aid of the knife insert all the pieces of the guinea fowl, including the crunchy skin and, if the mixture is too dry, dilute with a bit of fresh cream.
for the sauce
Melt the butter in a pan and add the crème fraîche. Once the temperature of 50°C has been reached, add the Parmesan cheese and mix until the sauce becomes smooth.
preparation
Roll out the dough with a thickness of about 2 millimeters, cut squares having the side of about 5 cm and place in the middle of them the stuffing using a sac-à-poche. Close them forming small fagottini.
Put the fagottini in a pot with plenty boiling water, wait for it to come up, drain it and then sauté it in the pan with a spoonful of the guinea fowl sauce. Sprinkle a spoonful of sauce on the bottom of a dish and place the fagottini on top of it.
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RECIPE/The cappelletti by Pier Giorgio Parini Cappelletti Povero Diavolo style by Pier Giorgio Parini, chef of the Osteria Povero Diavolo in Torriana (Rimini), another protagonist of Identità Milano, within the event Identità Naturali, on Monday, February 11 2013.
Recipe for 4 persons
Ingredients
300 g egg dough
100 g little seasoned fresh cheese
200 g beef
100 g pit cheese
grated Parmesan cheese
salt
oil
nutmeg
½ lemon peel
for the stuffing
Half cook the beef in a pan, chop it, dress it with fresh cheese, grated nutmeg, lemon peel, salt, and Parmesan cheese.
for the cappelletti
Roll out the egg dough, cut it into squares, stuff them and close them in the shape of a small hat, until using all the stuffing. Put the cappellettti in the boiling salty water, cook it, drain it and sauté it with little butter, place it in the dish and sprinkle it with the pit cheese.
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RECIPE/The spaghetti with chestnuts by Niko Romito  The Lacquered spaghetti with smoked chestnuts by Niko Romito, chef of the restaurant Reale Casadonna in Castel di Sangro (L’Aquila) and among the speakers of the day Identità Naturali in Milan, on Monday February 11, 2013.
Ingredients
180 g spaghetti
1.500 g veal broth
400 g boiled chestnuts
10 g toasted pine seeds
marjoram
white pepper
water
Procedure
Smoke the chestnuts with cherry-wood. Whisk with 600 g of water and filter with a coarse muslin. Cook spaghetti for 5 minutes in the slightly salted veal broth, drain it and pass it in the pan to end cooking with smoked broth, having the broth dry completely. Adjust salt and chili pepper to taste. Serve in a dish adding pine seeds and marjoram leaves. |
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RECIPE/ Caciocavallo cheese tortelli by Sabatelli Podolic caciocavallo cheese tortelli with pine “cardoncelli” mushrooms and foie gras by Angelo Sabatelli, chef of the restaurant bearing the same name at Masseria Spina in Monopoli (Bari).
Recipe for 4 persons
Ingredients
for the egg dough
100 g 00 flour
100 g semolina
6-8 egg yolks
4 g extra-virgin olive oil
2 g salt
for the stuffing
200 g cream
125 g podolic caciocavallo cheese (grated)
25 g butter
for the dressing
200 g pine cardoncelli mushrooms
50 g extra-virgin olive oil
60 g broth obtained from the mushrooms wastes
100 g mug pine butter in cold dices
salt to taste
120 g duck foie-gras
salt and pepper to taste
Procedure
Put cream and butter in a saucepan; when they start boiling, remove from heat and add the cheese. Melt well and pour into a baking-pan, let it cool. Knead all the ingredients for the egg dough and let it rest.
Roll the dough out thinly and stuff with caciocavallo; shape as wished and place it on a baking-pan sprinkled with semolina.
In a pan have the mushrooms (previously cleaned and washed) brown with extra-virgin olive oil, add salt and broth, reduce and add butter little by little until it is creamy. Dress the duck liver with salt and pepper and brown it for about 1 minute per side in a hot pan without greases; dry on kitchen paper and keep warm.
Cook the tortelli for 3 minutes in plenty salty water, dress it with the sauce and place them in the serving plates; finish with scalloped foie gras and wafers of burnt wheat.
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