Monograno Felicetti

Dear {NOMEUTENTE}
This was the last Identità di Pasta newsletter of 2011 and Gabriele Zanatta has thought it was a good idea to publish seven greatly appetizing pasta recipes, certainly little tuned into december and january rites, when opportunities to banqueting and celebrating friendship a lot. So, amaze your friends and yourself.
Paolo Marchi
 

Recipe 1/ The Tagliatelle by Italo Bassi and Riccardo Monco

Tagliatelle stuffed with artichokes and scampi, caramelized capers from Pantelleria and marjoram by Italo Bassi and Riccardo Monco, chefs at the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence. The first from Emilia Romagna and the second from Milan will be the protagonists of a lesson with the Cerea brothers on Monday, February 6 at the Auditorium.

Recipe for 4 persons

Ingredients
for the dough
250 g “00” flour
5 egg yolks;

for the stuffing
4 artichokes from Siena
1 clove of garlic
2 dl Tuscan olive oil

for the sauce
2 artichokes from Siena
1dl vegetable broth
a few leaves of fresh marjoram
Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil

for the scampi
8 fresh scampi
2dl water
1dl white wine
a few leaves of fresh marjoram
Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil

for the capers
20 g desalted “micro” capers from Pantelleria
10 g icing sugar;

1 dl bisque obtained from the scampi heads
Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper to taste

Procedure
Prepare the tagliatelle stuffing by cleaning the artichokes and cutting them into quarters, then add the garlic and cook them at 70°C for about 2 hours covered with olive oil; drain and thinly chop them, add salt and pepper.
Prepare the sauce by thinly cutting the previously cleaned artichokes, put them in a vacuum pouch with the broth, the marjoram, the oil and little salt; steam in the oven at 90°C for about 30 minutes, then whip to obtain a smooth, homogeneous and silky sauce.
After working flour and eggs into dough in a traditional way, roll the dough out very thinly, stuff with the artichokes and cut the tagliatelle.
Marinate the scampi with the marjoram, the white wine and the oil for about 30 minutes; warm the water up to 80°C, remove the scampi from the pickling and add the water to obtain an infusion where to cook the scampi for about one minute at a temperature of 70°C. Drain, dry and brown them in a frying pan with a little oil.
Caramelize the capers by melting the sugar in a pan for a few minutes. Finish the plate by cooking the tagliatelle in plenty of salted water, drain it into the frying pan where the scampi have been browned, add a bit of bisque and Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil to thicken the sauce; place the artichoke sauce in the dish then add the tagliatelle, the scampi and the caramelized capers and finish drizzling Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil and adding a few leaves of fresh marjoram and, if you want, a few petals of fried artichoke.
 

Recipe 2/ The squared agnolotti by Juri Chiotti

Squared agnolotti with local mountain cheese and wild herbs by Juri Chiotti, born in 1985, chef at the Antiche Contrade in Cuneo.

Recipe for 6 persons

Ingredients
500 g egg fresh pasta
200 g fresh nettle tips
100 g watercress
20 g dried vervain leaves
30 borage fresh leaves and flowers
50 g cream
50 g vegetable broth
100 g local mountain cheese cut into thin slices
50 g grated cheese
50 g smashed boiled potatoes
salt and pepper

Procedure
Wash and dry well all the fresh herbs (better if just picked).
Boil the nettle tips for a couple of minutes, cool up and cut them. Add the cheese and potatoes and add salt and pepper to taste and then place it in a sac-à-poche.
Separately, parboil the watercress for 1 minute, cool up and whip it with some cooking water and extra-virgin olive oil to obtain a nice bright green sauce.
Warm cream and broth at 80°C, add the dried vervain and leave it in infusion for 10 minutes. Filter and whip to a froth in a mixer, adding 2 grams of soy lecithin.
Prepare the agnolotti with the nettle stuffing in the classical squared shape and cook it in plenty of salted water for two minutes. Toss it with goat’s butter.
In the dish, place the agnolotti in 2 layers of 4 pieces each alternated with slices of local mountain cheese. Finish the dish with the watercress sauce, the vervain froth, and the borage fresh leaves and flowers.
 

Recipe 3/ The black farfalline by the Colleoni brothers

Black farfalline, vegetable gems, little baby-squids and roasted tomatoes by Marco and Vittorio Colleoni, chefs at the San Martino in Treviglio, Bergamo.

Recipe for 4 persons

Ingredients
for the dough
2/3 cuttlefish ink blisters (obtained by cleaning the cuttlefish )
½ glass of scented white wine
250 g of flour
5 egg yolks
1 egg
salt
For the seasoning
1 carrot
½ yellow and red pepper
1 celery stick
1 zucchini
4 tomatoes
1 leek
12 little baby-squids

Procedure
Whip the cuttlefish ink with the wine, the yolks and the whole egg and the salt, filter with a thin colander to eliminate any filaments and then pour it onto the flour and work into a smooth and elastic dough. Let it rest in the fridge for about 30 minutes.
Roll the dough out into 4 cm diameter discs and join up their center pinching with your fingers to obtain the farfalline (small butterflies).
Prepare the vegetable gems shaping the vegetables as you prefer, prepare the roasted tomatoes. Half-cook the vegetables in salted water and immediately cool them up with ice to fix their color.
Clean the whole baby-squids drizzle some oil in a pan, sauté the baby-squids and then add the vegetable gems and the farfalline (previously cooked as normal pasta), place in the dish and garnish with petals of roasted tomato, citrus zests and basil small leaves.
 

Recipe 4/The cappelletti by Riccardo Di Giacinto

“Dry” broth cappelletti with Parmesan cheese and saffron by Riccardo Di Giacinto, chef at the All’Oro in Rome. “Dry” since the broth isn’t outside but inside the cappelletto.

Recipe for 4 persons

Ingredients
for the egg pasta
12 egg yolks
500 g flour
10 g olive oil
5 g salt

for the broth
300 g lean meat
300 g chuck
4 knees
1 carrot
1 onion
1 celery
4 Parmesan cheese-rinds

for the Parmesan cheese froth
400 g milk
500 g 24 month Parmesan cheese
2 whites of egg

Procedure
For the egg dough: work all the ingredients into a dough and let it rest in the fridge. For the broth: cook the meat and vegetables for the broth in 3 liters of water. For the froth: bring the milk to the boil, have it cool up for one minute, add the Parmesan cheese and whip it, whip the whites of egg to the froth, add to the milk and Parmesan mixture and fill a 1 liter siphon (with 2 gas charges). Once the broth is ready (about 3 hours), fill the silicon moulds (with the broth) and once they have completely cooled up roll the dough out, brush it with the egg yolk and prepare the cappelletti with 2 layers one above the other.
Once the cappelletti is ready, keep the froth warm, cook the pasta, foam the dish, drain the cappelletti in a pan with some good butter, serve it in the dish, season with the saffron (baked in the oven) and add a grating of lemon.
 

Recipe 5/The panzerotti with broccoli by Di Iorio

Panzerotti with Roman broccoli and tub gurnard by Giuseppe Di Iorio, executive chef at the restaurant Aroma in the hotel Palazzo Manfredi, Rome.

Recipe for 4 persons

Ingredients
for the fresh dough
250 g reground bran flour
250 g “00” flour
2 whole eggs
6 egg yolks
Salt to taste
For the stuffing
200 g Roman broccoli
200 g fillets of tub gurnard
salt/pepper to taste
1 spring onion
1 small carrot
1 celery small stalk
50 g butter
grated lemon peel
chives
chopped fresh parsley
extra-virgin olive oil

Procedure
for the fresh dough
Sift the flours on a working surface, in the middle break both the whole eggs and the yolks and add a pinch of salt. Work with energy to obtain a homogeneous mixture, let it rest in a cool place for about 1 hour covered with a cloth.

for the stuffing
Clean the broccoli and wash them carefully, stew them in plenty of salted water. Prepare the vegetables into dices using the spring onion, the carrot and the celery to be warmed in a pan with a tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil and add the broccoli previously stewed and dried from the excess water.
Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the fillets of tub gurnard, the grated peel of lemon and quickly sauté. Combine the two mixtures and cool them up, add salt and pepper to taste, chives and parsley, and coarsely chop all the ingredients with a knife.

Finishing
Roll the dough out with a rolling-pin to a very thin layer and obtain 5cm side squares using a pastry cutter.
Place a bit of stuffing in the middle of each thin dough square previously brushed with an egg yolk, join the two corners to form a triangle, refold it joining the two ends to form the dovetail panzerotto.
 

Recipe 6/ The tortelli by Francesco Passalacqua

Tortelli stuffed with turnip greens and Andria stracciatella, anchovies of the Cantabrian Sea and Aspromonte black pork n’duja by Francesco Passalacqua, chef at the Pane e Acqua in Milan (picture by A.Angelucci).

Recipe for 4 persons

Ingredients
400 g turnip greens
10 anchovies (2 for the gravy, 8 to decorate)
1/2 white onion
1 rosemary branchlet
1 clove of garlic
100 g stracciatella
30 g n'duja

Procedure
Clean the turnip greens. Half-cook them in boiling water for a couple of minutes.
Drain and pour into already browned gravy made with onion, rosemary, garlic and anchovy.
Brown quickly, whip well and cool up. Prepare the tortelli with this stuffing.
Cook it in water with some turnip greens.
Serve in the dish and decorate with turnip greens sauce (made like the stuffing), stracciatella from Andria, n'duja from Aspromonte and anchovies of the Cantabrian Sea.
 

Recipe 7/ Gingerbread spaghettoni by Daniele Usai

Spaghettoni, smoked eel, gingerbread, red basil and turnip greens by Daniele Usai, chef at the Jre of the restaurant Il Tino in Lido di Ostia (Rome).

Recipe for 4 persons

Ingredients
for the gingerbread (first part)
375 g water
125 g honey
10 g salt
5 g star anise
peel of 2 lemons
2 g cinnamon powder
2 g nutmeg
2 g cloves

for the gingerbread (second part)
450 g Manitoba flour
50 g potato flour
13 g bicarbonate
8 g baking powder
50 g rum
1 vanilla bean

for the gingerbread emulsion
5 g star anise
peel of 2 lemons
2 g cinnamon powder
2 g nutmeg
2 g cloves
300 ml fish fumet
8 g soy lecithin

Other ingredients
500 g spaghettoni
2 cloves of garlic
extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch of turnip greens
150 g fillets of smoked eel
10 leaves of red basil

Procedure
for the gingerbread
Mix all the ingredients of the first part into a container, let to rest in the fridge for at least 12 hours. Filter. Mix in the mixer all the ingredients of the second part, drizzle the ingredients of the first part and finally add the rum. Place this mixture into a brioche bread mold filled to three quarters and bake in the oven at 160°C for 50 minutes.

for the gingerbread emulsion
Mix all the ingredients, warm up to 60°C and work the mixture with a hand-held blender to obtain a homogeneous and dense mousse.

To finish
Clean the turnip greens, cool them in water and ice, boil them in salted water and cool again in water and ice.
Dice the eel fillets into half a centimeter pieces.
Obtain crumbs form the internal part of the gingerbread and toast them in the oven for a few minutes at 150°C.
Cook the unpeeled garlic clove with some extra-virgin olive oil until it is golden-brown and then remove it. Add two kitchen spoons of fish fumet.
Cook the spaghetti in plenty of salted water. Drain the pasta 5 minutes before it is done and end cooking it in a pan adding the fish fumet little by little (this will allow the spaghetti to lose part of its starch making it creamy). When the pasta is cooked, add the eel, the turnip greens, the red basil and again extra-virgin olive oil. Then whip.
Serve the spaghettoni in the dish shaping a nest with the kitchen spoon, then decorate with the gingerbread crumbs, the mousse and a tip of red basil.
 

The book: A masterpiece called pasta

Last October 25 in Rome on the occasion of the World Pasta Day 2011 the volume A masterpiece called pasta. For a global diet, published by Alinari in Firenze (222 pages, Euro 47) was presented. Among the many important contributions we underline those of the historian Zeffiro Ciuffoletti, the nutritionists Pietro Antonio Migliaccio and Marcello Ticca, the art historian Francesca Acidini, the photographer and art director Guido Cecere. From the Sicilian origins of the pasta craft to the diffusion of pasta along our Peninsula with the guilds of the “vermicellari” (pasta makers) in Genoa, Palermo, Rome and Naples where in 1571 statutes to guarantee the quality of the product were drawn, forerunners of the manifestos for quality of our times... It’s worth reading it.